Natural Green Soap Colorants: part 2

Last year I tested six natural green colorants in cold process soap – you can read about it here – and no sooner had I completed the experiment than I thought of all the other natural¬†green colorants I could have tested. I decided almost immediately to make a second experiment… and it only took me another year to do it ūüėČ but here it is! In this experiment I will test six more natural green colorants or additives in cold process soap: liquid chlorophyll, comfrey leaf powder, cold pressed hemp seed oil, neem leaf powder, nettle leaf powder, and sea weed extract/powder.

Parameters

After my first experiment, I realized that there were variables that left some questions unanswered. So I did three things differently this time:

  1. A control: I left some of the batter uncolored. In the first experiment the green clay was so pale it was difficult to see any color effect at all. Since I knew my soap recipe yielded a white soap, I could confirm that the clay did effect the color of my soap, if only slightly. But I couldn’t prove or show you this because I didn’t leave any of the batch uncolored. This time the control will make the effects of the colorants obvious.
  2. Gelling: this can have a big effect on your soap colorants and this was something I was left wondering about last time. So this time I decided to split each colorant into two separate molds, oven process one of them and leave the other one out, uncovered, at room temperature.
  3. Weight and equalizing each batch: Last time I measured my dissolving oil out by volume, and this time I did it by weight. Since I was also using hemp seed as an actual colorant, I needed to even that out to make sure that each test got the same amount of extra oil. I decided to add 5 grams of extra oil to each test, including the chlorophyll which is a water based liquid, essentially mixing the oil and the liquid chlorophyll.

The Additives

After my last experiment I received several suggestions for other green colorants to try: alfalfa, avocado, cucumber juice, chlorophyll, and other powdered botanicals. While I was game to try anything, I left some out because either I couldn’t find them, or because it would have been too difficult to test in such a small quantity, and to compare to the other additives. I really wanted to try avocado pur√©e but there was no way I could have done it on such a small scale and account for the added volume and unknown amount of water.

Here are a few details on each of the additives I ended up choosing. Natural-green-colorants-test-F-and-P (7)Top to bottom, from left to right:

  1. Chlorophyll, liquid.¬†Trophic Chlorophyll (Super Concentrate) extracted from¬†Mulberry leaves in a distilled water base. I used a quarter of a tea spoon and it wasn’t enough to even register as a gram on my scale, which is why I didn’t bother adding the same amount of water to the other colorants.¬†
  2. Comfrey leaf powder. Hand harvested, dried and powdered a month prior to the experiment.
  3. Hemp seed oil: Manitoba Harvest brand, cold pressed organic. The hemp oil was the palest of the colorants, and I was glad to have the control to show that while it is pale, hemp oil can color your soap.
  4. Neem powder. Purchased at a health food/ethnic grocery store. Used typically in hair care. Dull greyish green color, but the fine powder is always nice if you want a less speckled look.
  5. Nettle leaf powder. Hand harvested, dried and powdered a month prior to the experiment. I choose nettle because it contains a lot of chlorophyll.
  6. Sea weed extract. Cosmetic extract made for skin and hair care applications that I purchased at a soap supply store. I guess it is basically powdered seaweed.

I started by weighing out the additives at a gram each. I came to this weight by starting at the most common ratio for any colorant,¬†1tsp / LB of soap, which is about 0.7 grams of botanicals, and then rounding up to 1 gram, my scale’s smallest unit. I added 5 grams of extra virgin olive oil to each colorant, except the hemp oil. I used the hemp oil as a colorant, adding it in at 6 grams, to replace the olive oil and¬†1 gram of¬†powdered additive.

The Soap

For the soap recipe, I used the same bastille recipe I had used the first time around, but increased the batch size to account for the control and the oven processed control. The recipe is a basic bastille soap with olive oil, coconut oil and castor oil. Lye concentration at 38%. Superfat at 4%, and with the added 5 grams of oil in each colorant this gets bumped up to a 7% superfat.

I mixed the soap to emulsion them poured out a predetermined amount for each color  and mixed in the green colorants and oil. Then I poured half of the colored batter into a 6 cavity muffin mold Рdestined for the 170 F oven Рand the other half into a crimped cupcake mold destined to sit uncovered in a cool room. The smooth soaps were left in the warmed oven for 4 hours, to try and force gel (although, to be honest, not sure they did gel) and the crimped cupcake soaps were left uncovered on a tray in a cool room. I unmolded two days later, and here are the results!

Results

This time I made more of an effort to take good pictures of the soaps at different times in the cure. Et voilà!

Freshly unmolded:

Natural-green-soap-colorants-day2-Flora&Pomona

Not bad at the unmold! My biggest surprise was the lack of difference between the oven batch and the room temp batch. The only one that is obviously different is the hemp seed oil, and it seems the cooler the soap, the more obvious the color. I guess it makes sense since it is cold pressed oil, perhaps heating destroys something in it.

Ok now, at two weeks, here also with the control peeking in on the right.

2 week cure:

natural-green-soap-colorants-2wk-cure-Flora&Pomona

I find that at the two week mark you can really see that the oven processed soaps are yellowing and browning faster. Kind of like leaves in the autumn.

6 week cure:

natural-green-soap-colorants-6wk-Flora&Pomona

Not bad at full cure. Some blotches (soap from other tests) have appeared on the soaps, and that means I should wipe my spatulas better ūüėČ

Normally, this is where most colorant tests end – at the 6 week cure. At this point most soaps are not only fully saponified but fully cured. If the color stays until the six week mark this is considered a good colorant, and in fact, this is where I was going to publish my results. But as life should have it, that didn’t happen and another 12 weeks passed before I sat down to write this. And I’m glad it happened that way, because here is a pic of the soaps 5 months into the cure…

20 week cure:

natural-green-soap-colorants-20wk-Flora&Pomona

Thoughts on the Results:

My feeling is that natural greens are particularly difficult because as we know, leaves brown easily. They get brown and yellow at the onset of cold weather, when they are picked, when they are cooked or otherwise broken down. And this explains also why the oven processed soaps yellowed faster. From the beginning and throughout the process chlorohyll was the most impressive colorant. It packs a real punch with the clear bright ocean green, but as you can see, it ages the least well. The chlorophyll is extracted so it’s not bound by leafy cell walls, which explains both why it is greener at first and then fades quicker. I also noted that the chlorophyll resembled the spirulina and chlorella I used in my first experiment, and that’s because sea weeds contain high amounts of chlorophyll.

I believe the reason the nettle and comfrey have held up the best is because they were 1) fresher and 2) more intact – ground in a coffee grinder – meaning the chlorophyll is still bound in the cell walls. The more you break botanicals up, the faster the cell walls will break down in a challenging environment: like alkaline soap, a hot stew, an infusion, or a tincture. So, if you can stand the speckled look, grinding your botanicals yourself might be the way to go. Although, these too will end up yellowed and faded too. The reason the neem has stayed the same color is probably because it already did its yellowing on the store shelf. When I bought it it was already yellowish brown. But I bet fresh neem leaves are green too.

As for the hemp oil, I really should have used more of it to know for sure. But I do believe that hemp would be no different than any other leafy botanical. Unless the green color comes from something other than chlorophyll.

Conclusions:

I realized a while ago, that the only botanicals that seem to really hold true and stay fast, are roots or botanical extracts,¬†like indigo. Extracts make sense, because they are no longer tied to/in the cellulose of the plant. But does anyone know why this is for the roots – alkanet root, tumeric root, madder root? I have a feeling it’s because chlorophyll is kind of the problem, because its purpose is to be reactive to sunlight.

I now feel that I don’t need to test any more green colorants. But if you have any other ideas for other natural colorants I could try, let me know! And please share any comments, suggestions or questions you might have on the subject. Let me know if you want close ups of the different soaps, I could add those in after if you want. Thank you so much for stopping by ūüėÄ

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Atelier de Feutrage de Savon | Felted Soaps Workshop

Le 22 octobre, je co-animerai un atelier sur les savons feutr√©s¬†@labobineuse!¬†Suivez ce lien: https://goo.gl/U61KBE Le cours commence √† 9:30 dimanche matin, et dure environ une heure et demi. Apportez votre caf√© ūüėÄ

Je prefère de enfeutrer des savons de lait doux et sans parfum. Vous aurez donc le choix entre ces deux savons artisanals Рsavon lait de chèvre, et savon karité et crème de coco Рque je fabrique ici à Montréal.

Nous utiliserons de la laine d’alpaga, que j’ai trouv√© lors d’un r√©cent voyage √† l’√ģle Gabriola, en Colombie-Britannique.

La laine d’alpaga a de nombreuses propri√©t√©s merveilleuses et un savon artisanal feutr√© est un produit enti√®rement biod√©gradable: une belle alternative aux poufs en plastique, aux mitaines de bain en nylon et aux microbilles en plastique. Et lorsque le savon √† l’int√©rieur est termin√©, vous pouvez continuer √† utiliser le tampon de laine. ūüźĎ¬†Bienvenue √† tous!¬†¬†Si l’int√©r√™t est √©lev√©, nous animerons possiblement un autre atelier en Novembre.

(English follows)

On Sunday October 22 I will be teaching a workshop at the landmark wool store La Bobineuse on Mont-Royal on how to felt soaps! We will be felting my own artisan soaps, made here in Montreal, using pure uncolored organic Canadian alpaca wool. The class will run about an hour and a half and starts at 9:30 in the morning. The class will be held in French, but if needed, I can fill in in English. Feel free to bring a hot brew with you.

Alpaca wool has a great many benefits: free of lanolin, this wool is considered hypoallergenic. Soft, less prickly and more ecological to farm than sheep, it’s also supposed to be antibacterial, making it the perfect wool to use as your full body scrubber. I always describe felted soaps as a beautiful alternative to plastic poufs (who likes those anyway?), nylon wash mitts and plastic micro beads – a felted soap is not only biodegradable, but the felt¬† cover extends the life of your soap, and once the soaps is gone, you can continue to use the wool pad as a washcloth, or even scouring pad for your dishes.

My favourite soaps to felt are gentle, unscented milk soaps, and I will bring a choice of either goats’ milk soap or coconut milk soap, pictured here below:

The wool is sourced from a working family farm and bed and breakfast on Gabriola Island in BC that I had the pleasure to visit myself this past month, called The Garden Bed. Here are some pictures of the happy alpaca sheep, freshly shorn by the looks of it:

Additional wool – alpaca, sheep or merino – will be provided for accent colors if you wish. Sign up by following this link:¬†https://goo.gl/U61KBE Spaces are limited, but if interest is high, we may do another one in November ūüėÄ

2017 Soap Menu, a beginning

Continuing from yesterday’s post, here is the beginning of my 2017 soap menu. This year’s menu will feature some classics like the pink salt spa bar, new versions of last year’s soaps, like Lavender Fields and Mocha Latte, and some new soaps, like the Orange Water & Coconut Cream soap that will come into cure in mid May. I will continue to add the soaps as they come into cure, so to start, here are the soaps that are fully cured and available right now.

Mocha Latte : a vegan coffee soap made with organic fair trade coffee beans from a local roastery. Also featuring organic coconut milk, luxurious cocoa butter, organic fair trade palm oil, organic coconut oil and a conditioning base of olive oil. Unscented but with a rich coffee fragrance.
Pink Himalayan Salt & Pink Grapefruit : an exfoliating spa bar with lotion like lather and a light fresh citrus fragrance from organic pink grapefruit essential oil. Only two heart shapes available!
Lavender Dreams : a gentle, conditioning soap made with a base of olive oil, an addition of creamy cocoa butter and scented with soothing lavender essential oil. Beautiful purple hues made with alkanet root.

 

Soaps that will come into cure over the next three weeks are, so towards the end of April: Unscented Bastille: a 70% olive oil soap made with olive oil, organic coconut oil and organic castor oil. Plain soap at its best.

Honey & Beeswax: a conditioning tallow based soap, with Swedish organic beeswax, Quebec honey and topped with bee pollen. Unscented.

Orange Flower Water & Coconut Cream: a creamy vegan soap made with orange flower water and organic coconut cream, tinted yellow with a tumeric infusion.

Oatmilk & Shea Butter: Conditioning, soothing and silky, this gentle soap is ideal for sensitive skin, people with eczema, children and even babies.

If you are in Montreal, the children’s clothing store Les Petits Monstres also carries the following soaps:

And the wool store La Bobineuse carries these soaps:

 

Thanks for visiting and please feel free to leave me any questions or comments you may have ūüėÄ

2017 Soapy Updates, plus a note on Naked Soap

Happy April!¬†I wanted to share what’s been going on over at Flora & Pomona. So far 2017 has been a productive year, albeit with a slow pace (I am a stay at home mom to a toddler after all). Most of my energy I put into production, because that’s my passion, but also because I am trying to build enough of an inventory to officially launch an Etsy shop. Having an online outlet is going to be a big step for me and I decided on Etsy after visiting an Etsy MTL event two summers ago. I expect that I will have five listings to open with within the month! On May 20th I will be participating in the artisan market March√© cr√©atif de la Paroisse in the St-√Čdouard church on 425 Beaubien.

This soaping season I decided to cut my bars a bit thicker so that they use up more evenly. I also started beveling the edges on my bars: this makes the soap more comfortable to use, at least until the edges wear down from use.

Rose-Water-and-Coconut-Milk-vegan-soap-Flora-&-Pomona.JPG

Rose Water & Coconut Milk Soap – with beveled edges and a thicker cut

I have had lots of fun using ingredients from local producers this year too – like making Oat Stout Beer Soap using beer from a local Quebec brewery, and Mocha Latte Soap using fairtrade coffee beans from a Quebec roaster.

I have also decided to make larger bar versions of the puck shaped Wool Wash soap that come on a hemp rope.

IMG_8379.JPG

Flora & Pomona’s Wool Wash Soap with Lanolin : larger bar version

This year I renewed my determination to make high quality natural soap, but with an added focus on what I call naked soap. By naked I mean soap that is not “dressed up” with colorants and fragrances but that smells and looks like what it is made of. A soap made with shea butter will smell very different from a soap made with cocoa butter, and a soap made with goats milk will smell and look differently from a soap made with distilled water. Instead of using synthetic colorants, which I rarely did anyway, I use herbs, clays, resins and infused oils.

Despite of common wisdom that the best and most economical thing for a small batch soap maker can do is to find a recipe and stick to it, varying only your fragrances and colorants, I have never had a standard formula. I have developed a preference for certain ratios, but this is not the same. Each soap I make is made for a specific purpose and I formulate my soaps according to the qualities I’m looking for. But back to the naked soap.

My initial motivation for making unscented and colorant free soaps was because I found a retail outlet in a children’s clothing store in my neighborhood. Once I started making these soaps it all just made sense. Of course I have a baby myself, but I also suffer from psoriasis and generally sensitive skin. For babies, children and people with skin issues, less is always more. I also discovered that my soaps actually smelled good – all by themselves.

Last year during a market a man walked up to my stall and asked me: “do you have any soaps that will leave a good smell on my skin”. I thought about it for a while, then said “no.” I have never used fragrance oils but I did have soaps¬†scented with essential oils. But none of them would have scented your skin. I guess I could have given him some kind of sales pitch, but I just knew that I didn’t have what he was looking for. There are lots of soap makers who make soaps that will perfume you, but I’m not one of them. And when I use¬†essential oils, I use them because I think they have purpose to serve, and never in such a quantity that they’ll double as perfume. So hopefully even after you use one of my soaps, even those scented with an essential oil blend, when you step out of the shower, you too will smell like what you are – yourself, naked and clean.

Some examples of Naked Soap ūüėÄ

Flora & Pomona at La Bobineuse!

I am very pleased to announce (belatedly) that as of 2017 the delightful wool store La Bobineuse¬†carries Flora & Pomona’s Lanolin Enriched Wool Wash and Felted Soaps, both pictured here below:

 

La Bobineuse¬†is located in the Plateau neighbourhood in Montreal. This store has been in the area for nearly half a century, a mecca for fiber enthusiasts, knitting addicts and beginners alike. They also offer classes on how to knit and crochet (which I plan to take as soon as possible). I spent lots of time in this cozy store last winter – buying skeins of beautiful turquoise merino, luscious baby alpaca and sheep’s wool (yes, I can’t even knit) – so I’m very happy and proud to see my Wool Wash and felted soaps on their shelves.

La Bobineuse is located at 2196 Avenue du Mont Royal East, Montreal, QC H2H 1K3.

Flora & Pomona at Boutique Les Petits Monstres

Mars Balms

I am delighted to announce that Flora & Pomona products are now available at Boutique Les Petits Monstres on 2124 Mont-Royal east! This children’s clothing store in the Plateau area of Montreal just opened a few months ago, but has already become a staple for parents in the neighbourhood as well as a place to find many locally made products, from finely crafted sleep-sacks to books and now, soaps, creams and balms! Added bonus: Les Petits Monstres also has a kids corner where the little ones can play while parents browse.

IMG_5020.JPGThese are the F&P products you can find at Boutique Les Petits Monstres

  • Herbal Balm: made with organic botanicals, local Quebec beeswax and raw Shea butter. The perfect balm for all types of skin irritations, from diaper rash to eczema, this balm is the most used product in my own home.img_4756
  • Whipped Body Butter: made with organic cocoa butter‚Ķ

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Flora & Pomona at Boutique Les Petits Monstres

I am delighted to announce that Flora & Pomona products are now available at Boutique¬†Les Petits Monstres on 2124 Mont-Royal east! This children’s clothing store in the Plateau area of Montreal just opened a few months ago, but has already become a staple¬†for parents in the neighbourhood as well as a place to find many locally made products, from finely crafted sleep-sacks to books and now, soaps, creams and balms! Added bonus: Les Petits Monstres also has a kids corner where the little ones can play while parents browse.

IMG_5020.JPGThese are the F&P products you can find at Boutique Les Petits Monstres

  • Herbal Balm: made with organic botanicals, local Quebec beeswax and raw Shea butter. The perfect balm for all types of skin irritations, from diaper rash to eczema, this balm is the most used product in my own home.img_4756
  • Whipped Body Butter: made with organic cocoa butter, organic mango butter and organic coconut oil. A rich nourishing butter without fragrance, preservatives or colorants. A great multifunctional butter, to use after bath time, for baby massage, or on your baby belly.¬†img_5011
  • Nourishing Lipbalm:¬†made with organic cocoa butter, local Quebec beeswax, organic castor oil and vitamin E, this lipbalm comes unscented or with organic coconut flavor. Yum! Unlike conventional lipbalms with camphor and petroleum waxes this balm will not dry your lips but nourish and soothe them. Perfect for our Canadian winters!¬†florapomona-nourishing-balms-9
  • Soaps: Unscented Bastille, Butters and Cream, and Bastille 5 Flavor Soap Sampler

    To read more about my soaps, click here.